Since we picked up this Williams Earthshaker in such horrible condition and have never seen it powered up, before we even attempt to turn it on, we need to go over some areas of the game to make sure that applying power doesn’t cause more harm. In this article, I go over one check, which is making sure all the coils/solenoids are in good condition. A burned-out coil can cause damage in other areas of the machine, or even a fire.
Continuing the ongoing saga of restoring a Williams Earthshaker, in this episode, I take a look at the backglass and go over some basic ideas on how to preserve and secure an old backglass from further flaking and damage..
After waiting awhile, let’s take a look…
Ok… we wait awhile and check it, and add some more coats..
So what do you do about clear areas on the backglass? You need to avoid creating any kind of “haze” that obscures score reels or other things that need to be viewed behind the backglass/translight. Here is how we deal with that:
Some additional tips:
When you work on the backglass, make sure the humidity and temperature levels are moderate. It should neither be too dry nor too humid, but err on the dry side where possible.
Avoid cleaning either side of the backglass until after it has been treated, especially the screen-printed side. Even if the screen-side is dirty, it’s best to seal in the dirt, rather than clean it and run the risk of causing the backglass to flake or crack. However if you want to dust it with something like a Swiffer, you can try to do that, but again, be very careful that the Swiffer doesn’t hook on to any flaking and pull it off. Ultimately it’s best to seal the screen-side before even trying to wipe down the front – you don’t want to risk getting any moisture on the screen side until it’s sealed.
Make your first 2-3 coats relatively thin. Don’t slather on the Triple Thick unless you do it after several coats have dried and started to seal the backglass well. There’s a lot of evidence that moisture if subjected to certain types of screens, can cause the backglass to wrinkle and peel off catastrophically. So take your time and put a few very light coats on at first and see how the backglass reacts.
If you may have any loose flakes on the backglass, be very careful with the first few coats of Triple Thick. Watch your spray angle and spray downward instead of across or you might risk blowing flakes of backglass around.
Spray in a well-ventilated area, or immediately leave the area after spraying
Avoid subjecting the backglass under any conditions, to freezing temperatures. This may cause the various materials (containing different amounts of moisture) to expand and contract at different rates and cause cracking and flaking.
The other day the DMD just went “poof” on one of my machines. After doing a little research, and checking connections and things, I realized the DMD board died. In this installment, I walk through the process of rebuilding the power supply-portion of a Bally/Williams WPC DMD board. In part 1 I describe what I’m doing and introduce you to the tools I’m using.
Next up, let’s talk about using a meter to check circuit board traces as we go along..
Desoldering and replacing components.
Now the moment of truth! One thing I want to add is pay very close attention to each item you are replacing on these boards. Two diodes, capacitors or transistors may look alike, but have slightly different values or part #s. The three power transistors and the diodes are not all the same. You may have to bust out a magnifying glass to note the different in the markings on each part. This should also be cross-referenced with the schematics and/or parts list from the game manual.
For my inaugural post, I am adding this video playlist, which covers the process I went through after picking up a Bram Stoker’s Dracula pinball machine.
The idea behind this video series is not as some kind of slick “how-to”, because I’m basically filming “on-the-fly”. I’m not doing any editing; I’m not staging any scenes. I’m turning on the camera and filming and what-you-see-is-what-I-see. So basically you can follow along with me as I unload this machine and bring it back to life. I’m not claiming to be an expert on pinball repair and maintenance — the Internets are chock-full of “experts”. I’m just a guy who decided to film his experience so you can have a little amusement following along with me. Will I make mistakes? Definitely. Will this be informative? Who knows? But hopefully it will be worth your time. Let’s see…
As you will see from this series, a simple pinball acquisition turns into a major set of modifications…
How long is this series of videos? Too long I’m sure.. shot in little segments, at current time, totaling 36 parts, it chronicles the trials and tribulations of what it takes to recondition an otherwise “fully-working” game.. ha ha